Food & wine · Banyalbufar

Banyalbufar: Paella at Patri's Home, with a Village Walk

This is not a cookery school: it is Patri's home in Banyalbufar, the Tramuntana village of terraces above the sea. You meet her at the bus stop, take a short walk through the village while she tells you what life there is like, and arrive at her country house, where she cooks in an outdoor kitchen among the vegetable garden, the dogs, the cats and the hens. You start with homemade sangria and Mallorcan nibbles, then make the paella step by step, with the tricks for the sofrito and getting the rice just right. It ends with dessert and coffee at the table, all together. People who go say it feels 'like being invited round to friends'. It takes up most of the day; go without hurry, and without having to drive after the sangria.

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